My 70th birthday was one of the most memorable.  My two daughters, Natalia and Andrea, and son Dylan, paid for a four day trip to Naples.  After getting up really early, Natalia, her six year old daughter Beth, Andrea and myself crossed the skies from Dublin Airport at around 7 am on Saturday, 18th April 2015.

“Buongiorno Napoli”

Three hours later we arrived in Naples. A short taxi journey would take us to the Grand Hotel Santa Lucia.  Apartment blocks were everywhere.  Some had balconies full of clothes drying outside.  There was a lot of graffiti and parts looked a bit neglected.  Naples is a port town, and some of the buildings had seen better days.  The taxi took us to our hotel in the Bay of Naples, opposite a very old castle, Castel dell’Ovo, on Via Partenope. The hotel dated back to the beginning of the 20th century and was of Art Nouveau design, or so the brochure said. The castle (sometimes called the Basilica), juts out into the sea, with boats bobbing alongside. If you walk through its arch, there are several sea food restaurants but they cater for much more.   We sat down to a lovely meal, our first in Naples. The room we had faced out onto a wide road, devoid of traffic, opposite the sea.  The hotel was old and elegant with grey and white walls, marble floors and beautiful chandeliers.  We were directed into the lift by two attendants in grey uniforms who were charmed with Beth.  Italian’s love children, and make a great fuss of them.  The rooms were gorgeous, two bedrooms with white and gold chest of drawers, typical of Italian furniture, and a spacious bathroom. The heavy curtains had thin white muslin curtains in between, and a metal grill outside the doors/windows which came down at the touch of a switch. The view from the balconies was spectacular.  On that afternoon there was a mist covering Mount Vesuvius and the Isle of Capri.  Mount Vesuvius, in the Gulf of Naples is about 9 km east of Naples and a short distance from the shore.  The first eruption was in AD 79 and the last time it erupted was in 1944 and we hoped it stayed that way.  3,000 people are living nearby, and it is known to be the most densely populated volcanic region in the world. Luckily Vesuvius is heavily monitored and an evacuation plan is in place and ready should there be another eruption.

After sorting ourselves out, who was in which room etc., we crossed the road to the Castle.  Sea food is displayed in refrigerated glass cases outside restaurants. The array is breath taking, fish you you have never before seen are laid out to tempt you inside. We found one nearest the water’s edge, and settled down to pizza, fish and vegetarian for Andrea.  The girls had a glass of wine, but we were presented with an aperitif to begin with, which is common in most restaurants.  Sometimes you get a liqueur after your meal also.  We lingered over our meal for a while, then took a walk around the coast line.  Again, many apartments were to be seen located on the hills around Naples.  When we got to the centre, we looked inside the Cathedral which was towering over the Piazza (square), supported by columns in front and to either side, in a half circle.    A marathon was being organised so the square was packed with people, the police and army presence also.

We stopped for coffee and ice cream beside the square. Beth got a “Music Tornado”, which was a yellow and turquoise round ice cream on a blue plastic stick, which was actually a whistle.   The Opera House, the Theatre San Carlo, is opposite the Cathedral. “Gizelle” was being performed at the Opera House, and people could be seen going in for the afternoon performance. The walls opposite the Cathedral were covered as they are restoring the building. There were many posters along the wall, depicting people who had been victims of violence.  Coffee was served in small cups and you add your own (hot) milk.  There is nothing quite like Italian Gelati – Beth can vouch for that.  It didn’t take long for her to demolish her ice cream.

We walked up and down crowded, mostly narrow and sometimes cobbled streets. Cars and Lambretta’s weaved their way through endless traffic with no particular order.  Italian’s love to blow their horns and have their own way of making their journey in a totally haphazard way.  Signals are not the rule but traffic seems to keep moving.  When you step off the path, you have to remember that the traffic close to you is coming from the left, not the right.  There are zebra crossings, but the safest way to cross is where there are lights, when you can find them.  We were constantly crossing the roads at our peril.

Natalia wanted to take Beth for something to eat, so Andrea and myself went back to the hotel to enjoy a bottle of wine we had bought on our travels.  Unfortunately, we had no bottle opener.  Andrea struggled to open it with scissors.  Eventually, on Natalia’s return to the room, she managed to get it open.  Natalia gave Beth a bath and settled her down and we three enjoyed a glass of wine, chatted for a good while.  The view from the window was gorgeous as it got dark and the lights outside came on.  The castle was lit up, and people strolled around with no particular place to go. We finished our drinks and retired to our beds. What a wonderful first day.

The next morning, Sunday, we went downstairs for breakfast.  It was the usual continental breakfast where you helped yourself to cereal, cooked breakfast, fruit juice and, if you wanted to indulge, all the various cakes and pastries typical of a European breakfast.  Andrea negotiated with a taxi driver to take us to Pompeii, in the region of Campania, wait and bring us back. We arrived and got the tickets, joined a tour, and started the amazing walk around Pompeii.  The city and its people had been destroyed by the ash and gases of the Volcano Vesuvius in the year AD 79.  People were asleep in their beds when the ash and toxic gasses descended on their city, suffocating them and completely burying the city. It has now been excavated and it is amazing to see where the roads and houses were.  The ruins of shop fronts and living quarters behind remain, as do houses of the wealthy (which had gated entrances)..  We were shown where the market square was, and the spa area.  In the market place, there was a huge marble slab for the fish being sold, and stalls surrounding the table.  There were statues to Mercury, Apollo, and Diana (the god of the sun). People were pagan at the time and so prayed to these gods.  There was an area where there were brothels and another large square with the remains of a temple.  There was large and small amphitheatres (where concerts are still held today), and a place where fights with gladiators were held. An exhibition area is packed with artefacts that have been excavated, cooking utensils, furniture from their houses etc. Some mummified bodies were in glass cases (including the body of a dog).  People died where they stood or lay and were covered in the ash from the volcano which preserved their shape. Pompeii was held by the Romans and the Greeks throughout its early history. The surrounding scenery is a sight to behold.

Our taxi driver was waiting for us when we returned from our tour, and took us back to Naples.  He did overcharge us by €20 – it was on the clock, but he had said €70.  However, it was an experience not to be missed and the convenience of a waiting taxi meant that we were back in Naples in just over half an hour.

That afternoon we all hopped on the Red Tour Bus and saw a lot more of Naples.  We went up and down narrow streets along the coast, looking out across the Bay.  The sky was clear blue and there was a slight breeze at the top of the tour bus.  We were glad we had brought jackets.  It was only April after all.  We saw some of the older, more run down, parts of Naples.  There were loads of individual shops of all sorts and churches.  People were busy going about their business.  We were told by the Guide that, the people of this part of Naples still held their heads high, in spite of not being very well off.  Naples had been a very prosperous port town over the centuries.  I’m sure the sea air took a toll on the plaster covering the buildings as the paint on some of the apartment blocks were flaking and could have done with a lick of paint. However it all added to its charm.  The coast line was magnificent, and it was a real opportunity to see so much of Naples and learn about its history.

Monday, our last full day. You would never tire of the amazing view looking out from the balcony, especially first thing in the morning.   After breakfast we decided to get the Blue Line Tour Bus as far as the Central Station, which was only three stops short of the full tour. We walked to the stop, passing through what looked like a large Mall, called Galleria Umberto.  Some of the shops were open.  It looked like it was in the process of being restored.  It had an amazing marble floor which had been there for years, and a glass ceiling.  Crossing the road was again a case of ‘take your life in your hands’ although, if you have patience, you wait for a pedestrian crossing.  Natalia tried to cross with Beth during a gap in the traffic.  I didn’t see them, but Andrea’s heart nearly stopped. The traffic, once the lights turn red in their favour, take off like a bullet.  We passed a few horse and traps, and Beth wanted to have a ride on one.  Natalia said “when we get back, if we have time”.  The bus had just pulled in and we had to get on.  This time we saw a different part of Naples.  One surprise was a small replica of St Peters Basilica, seen in the middle of all the apartments as we looked down from the winding narrow roads, heading to the top where, to our surprise, was a lovely park area.  On our descent from this point, again the Bay of Naples could be seen and the spectacular views which included the Volcano and the Isle of Capri. It looked like a range of mountains out on the horizon.

When we got off of the Tour Bus, it was a short walk to Central Station.  I got some money out from a bank link we were passing beside the station.  The girls hadn’t allowed me to pay for anything on this holiday, so today was my last chance to at least buy them a meal and get a few souvenirs.  Andrea did most of the navigation and found times of trains on her mobile.  The station was modern with some nice shops.  Down some stairs and we found the platform for Sorrento.  There was a last minute change and the train came in on the platform behind us.  Fortunately, we overheard an Italian girl telling some visitors.  We all piled in to quite a full train, but found seats without any trouble.  As the train left Naples, the landscaped changed very little.  There were again, apartment buildings everywhere, some well painted, some a little dilapidated.  One thing we noticed along the way were the amount of lemon trees everywhere, some in peoples back gardens.  There were some orange trees also, but mostly trees with an abundance of lemons hanging from their branches.  There’s a big industry for lemons.  They are bottled, used for soap, liqueurs etc.  We saw the biggest lemons ever being sold on the stalls in Pompeii.

After about an hour, we arrived in Sorrento.  I had to get some film as my phone kept running out of power with all the photographs I was taking.  Unlike at home where you can buy film in most chemists, in Italy, you have to find a shop that is more specific. After walking for a short distance, Natalia pointed out a shop called ‘Armenta’ that sold film. Next we went for a bite to eat. There was a restaurant on the corner near the main street of Sorrento, with tables, as usual, outside.  We had a lovely meal.  After an aperitif, I decided on the sword fish which Natalia had the previous day, and Beth had plain Margarita pizza. She doesn’t like pizza with ‘bits’.   Natalia had a fish meal, including octopus.  Andrea had a vegetarian choice. Both Natalia and Andrea also had a glass of wine.  We took our time in the sunshine, although there was a glass shade over the tables.  After our meal, we crossed the road, and as Beth wanted to, we took the small “city train” around the town of Sorrento, weaving in and out and eventually reaching a small garden area where the train manoeuvred a turn, overlooking the coastline.  When the train returned to the main street, we decided to walk around and see for ourselves what Sorrento had to offer.  Again it was a warm sunny day.   We walked down narrow roads with shops on either side.  Andrea bought a few tea-shirts for Aoibh and Eoin at home, and we took our time as the roads meandered further down.  We lost sight of Natalia and Beth before long, though thanks to the mobiles, met up with them further down the road.  We all walked down towards the coast line.  There were a few small beaches with changing huts below a high wall.  Natalia said she would take Beth down to the beach for a while.  Andrea and I found a hotel nearby with a few tables outside, and a young boy standing in the doorway.  We ordered two glasses of wine, which were brought to the table along with three small containers, of peanuts, crisps, and some other kind of small hard crisp.  Again, after a phone call, Natalia and Beth arrived.  We used the toilets in the hotel, first Andrea who came back to us and said ‘it’s so beautiful inside’.  I took Beth to the toilet, and to see the ‘beautiful inside’ and it was breath-taking.  It was quite dark inside, to be expected when the weather is so hot, but the furniture in the dining room and walk through to get to the toilets, was that beautiful white and gold, classic Italian decor.  There was certainly an atmosphere of more affluence in Sorrento.

As we made our way through the narrow street with cars and Lambrettas tearing down on either side, we went into a church along the road, and lit a few candles.  We sat for a while in front of the alter and we were Beth’s audience for a while as she put on a show for us. After that, we sat down outside a restaurant and Natalia bought Beth hamburger and chips, and we had coffee.  We were really getting to like the gorgeous Italian coffee.  The man who served us was very friendly and made a fuss of Beth.  Natalia went to the toilet and gave Beth the money to pay the bill.  Beth came back with blue ice cream in a cone, compliments of the owner.  We made our way back to the station for our journey back to Naples.  Again, the train was full. The sun was beginning to go down.  I asked Andrea to take a photo of it, but after several attempts, the sun disappeared below the horizon.  It must have been about 8 pm at this stage.

When we got back to where we were staying, we weren’t really hungry, but decided to have something to eat, our last meal, before returning to the hotel. The restaurants, especially tables outside the restaurants, are usually full.  At the restaurant we had been to the day before, we were directed to a table. Our usual waiter, and another younger one, were making a fuss of Beth, as usual.  They were touching her hair, which she didn’t like and was keeping her head down.  This only encouraged the waiters.  Beth can be a little shy at times, especially with people she doesn’t know.  They were probably annoying her, but adults were amused. Natalia ordered the usual Margarita pizza for Beth, Andrea had mozzarella and tomatoes (tomatoes in Italy have a taste of their own, so sweet), and I had a small vegetarian dish with aubergines.  Natalia had a deep fried pizza.  Both Andrea and Natalia’s meals were enormous.  We weren’t that hungry to start with, but the girls they hardly made a dent in theirs.  We had the usual aperitifs and a bottle of wine between us.  As it began to get dark, and the lights lit up the castle opposite our hotel, Natalia said she was taking Beth back to the hotel.  Andrea and I stayed and finished the wine and the liqueur we had been given.

When we got back to the hotel, we were all fit for bed.  Beth had been amazing keeping up with all the walking we did over the few days.  We closed the metal blinds and called it a day.

We all got up and showered, and started to pack our things.  We went downstairs and had breakfast, and then back to our room to do last minute packing. Natalia and Andrea had paid the bill, so we took a few last photographs from the balcony.  Beth wanted one of us to take one of her from the balcony in her bedroom and then we took a few of us all from the balcony in the main room.

“Arrivederci /Ciao Napoli”

We got a taxi from our hotel to the airport.  The plane was delayed, but only by about 15 minutes.  We looked around Duty Free and bought a few last things, then boarded the plane.  Beth was still full of the joys and sang (chanted) just before we arrived in Dublin.  It was a good flight home and we arrived back to sunshine!

Picked up Natalia’s car and drove to their house.  We dropped in for a few minutes to see William and Sean, and Natalia and Colin’s new Brazilian Au Pair (forgotten her name!) who seems very nice and friendly.  The children opened their presents and their faces were alive with smiles.  Andrea drove us home (in Dylan’s car as she was to leave it in for an NCT the following day while himself and Jenn were on holiday).

Andrea dropped me off and went home to her family.  I waited for Adam (Jenn’s brother) to bring Izzy back, and give Adam his present for looking after Izzy for me.

An amazing holiday that I will never forget and perfect to mark my 70th birthday.